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Foreign

Scotland 2014 – Part 3

By Sheetar 24 July 2014 23 July 2014

Day 8, June 3:
Got up around 7am, had breakfast on the boat, then departed from Fort William around 8:30. Made it to Gairlochy locks at 9:30am. We were apparently the first folks through the Moy Swing Bridge since the lock tender cranked furiously to get the bridge open for us. Pretty neat to see that work. We made it to Laggan Locks by 11:30am and made a quick stop to drop recycling before heading on through Laggan Avenue, a beautiful pine tree lined section of the canal. I had some time to relax and knit since we had sailed this way before and I knew what to expect. We hit Cullochy Locks at 2:00 after a short stop at the Great Glen park to have lunch at their pontoon. The morning’s rain had mostly stopped by the time we were far enough from Fort William and it was shaping up to be a really pretty day. From what we heard from others, it ALWAYS rains at Fort William, so our experience was pretty well average. We also stopped at the Well of the Seven Heads again (it’s a pretty spot to tie up) where we were greeted by two swans and a batch of cygnets! Papa swan was having nothing of our being there and demanded bread from the boat. He almost didn’t let Doug off the boat since they were right up against the stern with their cygnets – there was some hissing and lunging involved. We made Kytra lock at 3 and took our time getting to Fort Augustus by 3:30. Doug made a spectacular parallel parking job (at the end of the time lapse below), and the boat behind us was so impressed that they recruited Doug to help with locking down. The Lisa, the large sailboat behind us, had a crew of four seniors (pensioners if you’re British), and Doug was more than happy to lend a hand for such a lovely vessel. We met the crew later for a pint or two at the Lock inn and hung around with them till about 10pm. A great time!

Day 9, June 4:
Got up early to catch a shower before the facilities filled up. The shower facilities at Fort Augustus stink like wet sheep, but are still usable. No other facility was quite as clean as the Gairlochy facility (except Caley’s marina), so I was a little bit spoiled I suppose. We did a little backtracking this day because we had made such great time to Fort Augustus. We took our time getting going in the morning and got underway around 9:15am. Made it to Kytra Locks at 9:45 where we saw Linda again and got another gold star for proper life vest use. Went through Cullochy at 10:45 after a short wait for another boat coming through. Stopped again at the Well of the Seven Heads for a rest and a snack then turned back around to Cullochy Locks where we stopped and got out to see the Bridge of Oich. We went through the lock at 1:30, then made it back through Kytra by 2:30 where we stopped to set up a little barbecue lunch with a single-use barbeque tray. The lock tender’s dog was pretty interested in what we were doing and came over for some head scritches. We made it back to Fort Augustus and went right down through the locks, having made it just in time for an opening. Going back down that staircase is definitely quicker than going up. We tied up at the bottom at 5:30, took a walk, had a pint at the Lock Inn, then it was back to the boat for a Doug-cooked meal, fajitas!

Day 10, June 5:
We slept in a little, but were up for breakfast by 8:30 and pulled away from the pontoon at 9:30 into a drizzly, foggy, but very calm Loch Ness. Loch Ness is probably one of the longer segments of the trip, so we only made it to Urquhart Bay Harbor at 12:30. We stopped there to make lunch and then we were back off into the fog at 1pm. The fog was finally starting to lift a little, but it had gotten pretty chilly. It was still raining when we made it to Dochgarroch Lock at 2:30. Shortly after leaving Urquhart Bay Harbor, we picked up two stowaways – two Mallard ducks had flown over and landed on the roof! We fed the very friendly ducks a slice of bread and they hung around with us for about an hour, preening and drinking rain water off the roof before flying off. After Dochgarroch Lock was the Tomnahurich bridge, and then we slowly sailed back into the Caley Cruisers marina. A crew member came out to refuel the boat, then we tied up and were all settled with the bill by 5:30pm. Made dinner, packed up, and relaxed for the evening.

Day 11, June 6:
Got up, had breakfast, and handed the keys to the boat back over. The VERY kind staff at Caley Cruisers offered to take us to the train station which was really VERY nice of them! We hopped a train at I think 9:45am and took the four hour trip back to Edinburgh. Pretty uneventful train ride, and we were both kinda bummed to be leaving such a great week behind. Back in Edinburgh, we took a cab to the Grassmarket Hotel (it was MUCH warmer in Edinburgh and neither of us were interested in walking with our big backpacks. The room wasn’t quite ready at the hotel, so we had a pint at the White Hart Inn, and then got settled in our room. The room was a lot smaller than the previous room (three sides of the bed were flush up against the wall), but it really didn’t matter since we were just going to be sleeping there. Headed off to see about finding some whisky to bring home (two half-liter bottles in addition to the Ben Nevis 10). The shop keeper even let Doug fill his own bottle out of the casks lined up on the wall. Walked around a bit since we hadn’t seen much of the other side of Edinburgh beyond the train station, and ended up at the Cloisters again for dinner. Back to bed early since our flight was supposed to be at 8am.

Day 12, June 7:
Woke up to get ready for our flight when Doug realized that the flight had been delayed two hours. Instead of rushing to get ready, we took our time, had breakfast at the bar next door, and settled up with the hotel at a leaisurely pace. Hopped a cab, and made it to the airport with plenty of time since the flight had been delayed further – the inbound flight was late, so the departing flight on the same aircraft was running behind. We finally boarded and headed back home, sad to leave such a great vacation behind.

Final Thoughts
We had some lessons learned on packing and grocery shopping that I’d like to share in case anyone reading this is looking for tips.

Things to Pack:

a deck of cards
clothes pins for hanging towels up
binoculars to help sight buoys and wildlife
a flag to represent your country or persuasion of piracy
male to male headphone cable for your mp3 player to plug into the jack on the stereo
inverter for the cigarette lighter port on the dash

Things we forgot or almost forgot to buy first round included paper towels, tissues, salt and pepper, sugar, cream, tea, and coffee. Keep a journal or ship’s log! It helped me go back and write up the blog posts and is just a fun way to remember what happened over the trip, even if it’s just a few lines about how neat the Moy Swing Bridge was or how far you travelled that day. Don’t plan too much – the bridge/lock openings don’t run on any sort of schedule and it works best to take them as they come and not worry about time. We had PLENTY of time to get there and back and could’ve even taken longer getting out to Fort William with no problem. Overall? I’d do this again in a heartbeat! I didn’t at all like the one big Caribbean cruise we went on (too much structure, too little to do on the boat in between ports), but this really had the right pace of sight seeing and relaxation time. Too much relaxation time (like at an all-inclusive resort) is SO ANNOYING to me – I like to go-go-go and see everything there is to see, but at the same time those go-go-go vacations never really feel like a vacation once you get home. This felt like a vacation and, I keep saying it, but it was really just the right mix of time to relax and running around seeing the sights. We’ve already started looking at taking boating holidays in other places around the world since this seems to be a pretty popular thing to do in Europe and there are a bunch of no-license-required waterways that allow novice boaters to have at it. So, that was our Scotland vacation! Can’t wait for the next one.

Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3

Foreign

Scotland 2014 – Part 1

By Sheetar 25 June 2014 24 July 2014

I think this is best in three parts because the vacation was kind of huge and amazing and it will be SO hard to fit this into just one post.

TL;DR: The vacation was possibly the best we’ve ever taken. We spent two days in Edinburgh and then hopped up to Inverness for a day. Then it was on to a boat to cruise the Caledonian canal for a week, up to Fort William and then back to Inverness and then a final day in Edinburgh before heading home. The pace was just right – we had time in a busy city, sightseeing, hanging in crowded pubs, but we also had relaxation time on the boat to enjoy the beautiful scenery and stop to take nice hikes. Honestly, top 3, possible top vacation ever.

On to the detail for those of you who like to read 🙂

Day 1, May 27:
We landed in Edinburgh around 10am, collected our bags and hopped a cab to our hotel (I think about £25), the Grassmarket Hotel. Our room wasn’t ready yet, so we dropped our bags with reception and popped over to the White Hart for a pint and something to eat. I remembered they had Haggis Nachos, so that was a necessity. Had a few pints along with lunch and by the time we were done, it was time to grab our room. The rooms at the hotel were small (think NYC size rooms) with very little room around the bed, but plenty of storage underneath the bed and in a small open closet space. We set back out to walk around Edinburgh, up to the Scott Monument, Edinburgh Castle, and winding around some small streets and such. Upon the recommendation of a friend, we went to the Edinburgh Dungeon, a totally touristy thing to do, but pretty hilarious. If you pay attention, you get a decent overview of Edinburgh’s seedy history from Burke and Hare to the plague and hangings in Grassmarket, and if you don’t pay attention, you get a fun show and carnival ride. Later that evening, we found some local Ingress players and went to the Cloisters bar with them for a few pints. It really was a fun evening and we had an absolute blast meeting Scottish Ingressers, but we were completely exhausted by the time we got back to the hotel and slept VERY soundly.

Day 2, May 28:
On the suggestion of a coworker of Doug’s, we took a short train ride to the town of Stirling to see Stirling Castle. I can’t really say which is better – Stirling or Edinburgh Castle – because they’re SO different from eachother. Stirling feels more like castle/residence where Edinburgh feels more castle/fortress. Spent most of the day wandering around the castle (there’s SO much to see), Argyll’s Lodging, and the small town. Had a late lunch, stopped in a little candy shop where we found Irn Bru rock candy. Took the train back to Edinburgh and went to Brew Dog for a few beers. They make some really unique brews that are hard to find in the USA so that was a real treat. While we were sitting at the bar, we saw that they had Victory beer in bottles in the fridge! We live really close to the Victory brewery, so it was crazy to see beer from home in a pub in Scotland. Headed back to the Cloisters again for dinner since we didn’t have dinner there the night prior and were told it was really great. Also, the selection of cask ales is incredible.

Day 3, May 29:
Got up, found breakfast, and hopped the train to Inverness. It’s about a four hour train ride, so we go into Inverness around 2pm. The plan was to hang out around Inverness the night before picking up our boat at the marina, so we booked a room with an old favorite, the Strathness House. The owners recognized us immediately and welcomed us back – SUCH a nice place, I can’t get over how lovely the hotel is from the staff, location, and everything about this hotel. Walked around Inverness for a while before having a pint at Blackfriars (beer tourism is just as important as regular tourism, in case you hadn’t noticed the trend!) where we met some Inverness Ingressers briefly. We had dinner at Hootananny, only to find that they had switched their Thai menu to a more traditional Scottish menu – no complaints from me! The thai was good, but traditional Scottish fare is delicious. Walked around some more, enjoying the extra daylight at that latitude – it doesn’t really get dark till after 11pm or so, and only stays dark for a few hours that time of year. It’s probably the hardest part about travelling to Scotland in the summer since my internal clock is based on daylight – getting dark? Must be about 8:30pm! Nope, 11pm. Really a mind blow.

Thus ends part one! It’s a little short, but I wanted to separate this part of the trip from the boat cruise which I’ll split into two parts. Having these first few days to adjust to the time zone (and extra daylight) REALLY helped us get on schedule for the boat. I don’t think we would have done quite as well if we had arrived and gone straight to the cruise.

Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3

Foreign

Scotland – August 2012 – Part 1

By Sheetar 17 February 2013 14 February 2013

This is going to be another VERY belated post about travel we did last year. Seriously, I need to get better about putting updates on the blog in a more timely manner. I’m splitting this up into two parts since it’s going to be WAY too long otherwise. Here’s Part 1, Part 2 to follow!

For photos of the trip, see the complete gallery on Flickr, here.

Thursday-Friday, 26-27 July 2012: Left Newark airport late in the evening on the 26th and arrived at Aberdeen, Scotland (via Heathrow) on July 27th. Got a cab to the hotel which was in downtown Aberdeen with both my big travel backpack and husband’s. Originally, husband was supposed to meet me in Aberdeen and take the train down to Edinburgh, but his schedule was changed last minute and we decided to meet in Edinburgh since he wasn’t going to make Aberdeen on time. At that point, it was too late to change any of the reservations, so I just went ahead with the plan as it was. The only downside was having to tote around his luggage and mine (two enormous backpacker type backpacks). Had dinner and some ale at Old Blackfriar’s and went back to the hotel early to watch the opening ceremonies of the Olympics. I had decided to participate in the ~~Ravelympics~~ Ravellenic Games, so I picked up my yarn and needles and cast on, somewhat tickled to be casting on while watching the opening ceremonies in the local time zone.
Saturday, 28 July 2012: Got up and walked the short walk to the railway station with both bags, and made it there for a 11am train. Arrived in Edinburgh around 1pm where husband was already waiting for me. He’d even checked into the hotel already! We had lunch and wandered around Edinburgh for a while. Husband had been there years ago in college, so some of it was familiar for him. Edinburgh was all decked out for the Olympics with a big olympic rings display setup on the hill, visibile for quite some distance. We signed up for a tasting at the Scotch Whisky Experience (the Platinum Tour), so around 6pm, we headed over there. It was totally a touristy thing to do, but it ended up being very educational, and a fun way to start our trip. The staff was very knowledgeable and we got to see the world’s largest whisky collection. It was REALLY impressive to see all the bottles lined up like that on lighted shelving, dates ranging from the late 1800s up through the present. The guide explained that most of the stuff wasn’t fit to drink anymore since the seals had come undone and it had been evaporating over time, but it’s still worth a lot. We went on to have dinner and some ales and then it was off to bed, but not until we watched a little more of the Olympic coverage.
Sunday, 29 July 2012: Got up and had breakfast and then it was off to tour Edinburgh Castle. On the way up to the castle, we stopped in the gift shop where we sampled Bruadar whisky which was AMAZING. A bottle may or may not have followed us home. The castle was more than just a castle – it’s a whole complex of chaples, war memorials, prisons, residence for the guards, among many other things. We were done with the castle, having seen the crown jewels and all, around noon, and headed off for lunch. Then, it was off to The Real Mary King’s Close, a small alleyway that had been built on top of over the years and forgotten about. The tour was FASCINATING – the way people lived, how tight and cramped the conditions were, but that they made do with what they had. The close and the homes off the close, now underground, had largely been left as they were for hundreds of years. Photos weren’t allowed since the Royal Exchange is above the close (security and all), but it was well worth the visit. After that, we wandered around and had some ales, took a ghost tour of Edinburgh, and had more ales and dinner before going back to the hotel.
Monday, 30 July 2012: We decided to head out to Incholm Island for the day since the weather was nice, and the trip involved a boat ride (for my mariner husband). It was a gorgeous day for it, and we spent a good while wandering around the island – through the old abbey where we encountered a man who broke into song, inspired by the acoustics of a little chapel room. This is the kind of place I love – a partially ruined old stone building with LOTS of character, tons of fun to photograph. The island also had remnants of battlements from WWI and WWII. Wee baby seagulls were almost done fledging, so the adults were still on alert. Doug happened to step just a little too close to the edge of the path where a fledgeling was hiding on the ground and he got dive bombed by an adult gull. Hilarious. He kept ducking down the whole walk back, thinking he’d be attacked again. Sometimes it pays to be the short one since they didn’t bother me at all! The boat took us back down the Firth of Forth, underneath the bridges, including the Forth Bridge which only carries rail traffic and was opened in 1890! On the trip back, we also saw a few seals in the water and basking on buoys as it got colder and started to rain. When we got back, we made our way to pre-dinner pints, then to dinner where we had things like Haggis nachos, including their famous, fresh caught haggis, and sat with a couple from Wales, a family from Belgium, and another group from Scotland. Had a blast and spent a lot of time there, enjoying the random company and food. Really lovely way to end our stay in Edinburgh, and I wish we could’ve had a few more days there.
Tuesday, 31 July 2012: We woke up, had breakfast, and then it was off to the train station for a train to Inverness. We arrived at Inverness and made it to our hotel by 2:30. We had no real plans for the day, so we took a relaxed walk around Inverness, had an early dinner, and went back to the hotel for an early bedtime (and some more of the Olympics).